Sanja is our first official guest! Some friends popped by for a night and we played pool and cutthroat late in to the night. Our killer cat has been hard at work. Zagreb has a new all vegan bakery. See photos below!
This post had to wait for me to finish Altai and I’m fighting the urge not to finish reading the Wu Ming book about Thomas Muntzer right now, both great books.
Belgrade or Beograd as the locals call it is the capital city of a country -Serbia in a region – the Balkans- that strongly identifies itself as having a meat eating culture, bare that in mind when I get excited about the smallest of vegan discoveries. Sometimes I am reminded of what it was like being vegan in the 1980’s U.K.! And no the new era of awareness of the effects of meat and dairy farming on climate change and the end of the world as we know it has not permeated the public consciousness over here or they just don’t care!
Having said that there are some vegan delights to be found if you know where to look. Also there is that other factor that harks back to the days when there were very few vegan restaurants anywhere and if those that did exist were often run my religious nutters! Great food terrible leaflets! Serbia has its own Orthodox Christian church just as crazy as the catholic one but fiercely different from it – supposedly! The one thing they do do differently is “Posno” food! On fridays they do not eat anything that contains meat or dairy, they do eat honey and some aquatic animals. It being a church dominated country you can get Posno food all over the place. I was told that some processed cheese that is considered “posno” actually has asmall percentage – considered insignificant- of milk in it, so you might want to check. But I have had several Posno pizzas with thick chewy vegan cheese on that was pretty good for the price!
As you may know I do reviews for Happy Cow, so you can see all my Belgrade ones here and of course all the other places, reviews and info too.
I will through up a bunch of photos and describe the food available and give suitable links.
There is another cake place that must be mentioned, though I seem to have deleted all my photos from there! Poslasticarnica Suma make their own cakes, many vegan and without sugar. I’m told they also do some very fine wine! It is situated just at the top of the “bohemian” quarter that gets featured on all the adverts for Belgrade, but don’t let that put you off!
So I had decided to limit the scope of this blog to the events and lives surrounding Barabrith. But having spent almost a month away in Belgrade and realising that many of you who are considering coming to visit us here may be interested in the capital city of the former Yugoslavia, I decided to make an exception! My recent visit to Belgrade was a little different due to the Covid 19 restrictions so we did a lot less visiting museums, theatre and such like. Still below are a bunch of photographs from Belgrade with my usual witty comments and inane insights…..
Thank you Sanja without whom most of that would not have been possible, up next my guide to vegan Belgrade!
The border restrictions on my being able to cross in to Serbia were removed, so off I went to see my beloved Sanja. I’m still here three weeks later but will be heading home soon. There will then be a special Belgrade report and normal service will return thereafter!
I went to see the guy in the office that helps people running tourist businesses in this area. He’s super helpful with all kinds of advice. I took the days mail to the main post office in Karlovac only to discover that the box to go to Ireland can’t be sent because they have a mail blockade on post from here. It makes no sense! I had to bring the damn thing back! On the ride back I bumped into a snake, said hello to a stork and I investigated the ruined church in Tusilovic. For the photographers amongst you, yes these pictures are less sharp than usual as they were taken with one of my old Sony Erricson C510 pre-‘smart phone’ era mobile phones and not my Ipad that I normally use.
I spent the last two days making some shelves in the barn. During the night in between I could not sleep and found myself watching the 1995 six part docuentary series The Death of Yugoslavia. It’s pretty harrowing and makes the bullet holes in the buildings we pass on the way to the supermarket rather resonant!
Below are photos of the shelf construction and a few inevitable silly selfies one has come to expect from yours truly.
The other day Marko drove us back from the local post office by a back route to see how easy it was to avoid the police check points. When I mentioned that my cycle ride to and fro to Krnjak was a bit hairier than usual due to the increase in big trucks on the main road Sanja suggested I should find a safer back route. So today I cycled back via a route similar to Marko’s but a little shorter, unfortunately it involves a couple of hills that are not on the main road route and two dogs that chased me. It is however rather pretty as the photos below and above show.
The track above is the last bit of the route that takes you down the hill from Donji Budački to the main road and past a very large white labrador that came tearing out of a garden and strangely ran just ahead of me barking madly! It comes out on the opposite side of the main road from our road.
We had a bonfire the other night for some old pre Mayday reason that I can’t recollect. It was a made up of a big pile of twisted branches and twigs that we could not do much with, well that was our excuse for a good dose of pyromania!